Often referred to as the Switzerland of Africa, Swaziland has magnificent mountain scenery with unique, ancient rock formations which are a source of fascination for geologists and scholars. Within the small area each feature of Africa’s terrain, apart from desert, may be found.

Swaziland is made up of four topographical and climatic areas, varying from 400 to 1800 metres above sea level, each with its own climate and characteristics.

The mountainous Highveld to the west has rivers, waterfalls and gorges with a temperate climate of warm, wet summers and dry winters when the temperature can rise sharply during the day but with cold nights. Although this area is not suitable for agriculture, much of it is given over to forestry.

The subtropical Middleveld is at a lower altitude with lush, fertile valleys and a warm climate ideal for cultivating various crops. It is here that much of the country’s agriculture occurs.

Further east is the Lowveld which is also subtropical and the largest region, covering about 40% of the country. While the area is prone to drought, sugar is successfully grown commercially. Cattle farming is also extensively carried out in this region, much of which is typical African bush where a profusion of indigenous wild life and flora is found.

The smallest area is Lubombo which borders with Mozambique. This subtropical region is typified by mountainous scenery and supports abundant plant and animal life. Mixed farming is the main activity.

The nearest harbour is Maputo, Mozambique which is about 235 kilometres away from Mbabane, the administrative capital and 200 kilometres from Matsapha, the country’s major industrial area.

THE PEOPLE AND TRADITIONS

During the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries an African people of Nguni descent migrated southward from Central Africa and eventually, during the mid-eighteenth century, a group of them settled in the area which is now Swaziland. These people, the Nkosi Dlamini, became known as the Swazis, and today both names live on: Nkosi means king and Dlamini is the surname of the royal family. The country derives its name from a later king, Mswati I and another name, Ngwane, is an alternative word for Swaziland.

The Swazis are a proud but peaceful people with happy, easy-going and often humorous personalities which has earned them the title Latins of Africa.

Old Swazi traditions are carefully guarded and colourful ceremonies frequently take place to mark special occasions. The two main rituals are the Umhlanga or reed dance, and the Incwala, or first fruits ceremony. The Umhlanga, which takesplace during August or September, involves unmarried maidens who, dressed in colourful beaded skirts and trimmings, travel to the royal kraal, or village, to honour the Queen Mother and perform traditional dances. On the way, they gather reeds which are used to make screens around the kraal and it is from this custom that the ceremony derives its name.

Much of the Incwala involves sacred, secret rites and direct participation by the King. It takes place over a three week period during December and January with dates selected by astrologers who monitor the moon phases to determine the ideal time. The ritual starts with a journey to collect water from the Indian Ocean and after the performance of various rites by young men, leads to the slaughter of a bull on the third and darkest night, before the new moon. On the fourth day the King appears in full ceremonial dress and after taking part in various rituals and dances with his warriors, he eats the first fruits of the season. The Queen Mother then participates and the Incwala ends with a ritual cleansing on the sixth day after the new moon.

Although western dress is widely utilised, the Swazis have a distinctive, colourful national dress known as emahiya and this is regularly worn with different accessories and head dresses used, depending on the status and age of the individual, as well as on the occasion.

Traditionally, Swaziland is a polygamous society and men may take several wives on payment of a dowry, known as lobola, which normally entails giving cattle to the brides’ parents. However, monogamous marriages, performed in the western custom, have become more common as Swazis adapt to and adopt aspects of the western lifestyle. However, the cultural heritage is deeply rooted with traditions carefully protected and sustained.

POPULATION

The Central Statistics Office placed the population figure at 912,878 for the year 1997, indicating that growth continues over 3% and remains among the highest rates in the world. The projected population at present fertility - about 6.6 births per female - is 1,220,000 by 2010. The importance of introducing a policy aimed at reducing population growth cannot be overemphasised. The population is a young one with 60% of the people aged under 21 years and 47% aged up to 15 years. The population is 76% rural and 24% urban with an urbanisation rate of 30%. Density averages 52 people per square kilometre.

AIDS was first reported in Swaziland in 1987 and is having an ongoing negative impact on the economy and social services. HIV in pregnant women is increasing (the latest reports claim 31.6% test positive) and it is mostly the economically active people aged between 20 and 39 years who are affected by the virus. According to United Nations statistics, as many as 300,000 people were HIV positive at the end of 1997 although other sources claim that the figure is lower. Steps are being taken to educate people in an effort to create greater awareness and stem the disease.

Life expectancy averages at 57 years according to 1996 statistics.

THE MONARCHY

Swaziland has been a monarchy ever since the Nguni people entered the territory where they lived under the leadership of Dlamini I. Today Dlamini remains the surname of the royal family although it is important to know that not all Dlaminis are of royal blood. The country and people derive their name from a later king, Mswati I, who reigned during the mid 19th century. The monarchy, which is arguably the only ruling one in Africa, is dual with the King or Ngwenyama (lion) ruling in conjunction with the Queen Mother or Ndlovukazi (she-elephant). The Queen Mother may be the King’s natural mother which is presently the case or, on her death, a senior wife.

Strict stipulations apply in terms of who succeeds to the throne and while many of these are closely guarded secrets it is generally known that the king must be the only child of his mother and unmarried. Thus the Swazi kings are always young men when they come to the throne. The King is regarded as the mouth-piece of his people and is described as umlomo longacali manga (the mouth that tells no lies).

The present monarch, King Mswati III ascended the throne in 1986 at the age of 18, succeeding his father King Sobhuza II, a much respected and loved man who was also the world’s longest reigning monarch, ruling from 1921 until 1982.

The monarchy has endured throughout Swaziland’s history, often in adverse situations. During the second half of the nineteenth century foreign settlers acquired valuable land for agricultural and commercial use. King Sobhuza II was instrumental in reacquiring much of this land for the people and today this is known as Swazi Nation Land.

Swaziland became a protectorate in 1903, when British colonial rule was established, and retained this status until she became a self-governing state in 1967 when Sobhuza II, previously regarded as a paramount chief, received international recognition as a king and the country acquired her own flag. In 1968 independence was achieved but the monarchy remains firmly entrenched.